:root {
  --paper: #f6f0e6;
  --paper-2: #fffaf3;
  --ink: #14110e;
  --ink-soft: #4d463d;
  --line: rgba(20, 17, 14, 0.14);
  --cinnabar: #c5362b;
  --gold: #e7d3a1;
  --gold-deep: #a68445;
  --pine: #1b4636;
  --river: #1c5962;
  --clay: #9a6232;
  --serif: "Fraunces", "Iowan Old Style", Palatino, serif;
  --sans: "Sora", "Avenir Next", "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  --measure: 76rem;
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--paper);
  font-family: var(--sans);
  font-weight: 380;
  line-height: 1.6;
}
img { max-width: 100%; display: block; }
a { color: inherit; }
h1, h2, h3 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 560; letter-spacing: -0.035em; line-height: 1.02; }
p { margin: 0 0 1rem; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: 1rem; top: -4rem; background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); padding: 0.6rem 0.8rem; z-index: 9; }
.skip:focus { top: 1rem; }

.site-header {
  position: sticky;
  top: 0;
  z-index: 6;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 1rem;
  padding: 0.75rem 4vw;
  background: rgba(20, 17, 14, 0.94);
  color: #f6f0e6;
  backdrop-filter: blur(16px);
}
.brand { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 0.7rem; text-decoration: none; color: inherit; }
.brand strong { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.35rem; }
.brand small { display: block; color: var(--gold); letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 0.68rem; }
.seal {
  display: grid; place-items: center; width: 2.45rem; height: 2.45rem;
  border: 1.5px solid var(--cinnabar); color: #ffd9d2; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.2rem;
  transform: rotate(-8deg); background: rgba(197, 54, 43, 0.25);
}
.desktop-nav { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.35rem 0.85rem; }
.desktop-nav a, .site-footer a { text-decoration: none; color: #efe6d6; font-size: 0.92rem; }
.desktop-nav a[aria-current="page"], .desktop-nav a:hover { color: #ffb4a8; }
.mobile-nav { display: none; }
.mobile-nav summary { list-style: none; cursor: pointer; border: 1px solid rgba(246,240,230,.3); border-radius: 999px; padding: 0.4rem 0.75rem; }
.mobile-nav summary::-webkit-details-marker { display: none; }
.mobile-nav nav { position: absolute; right: 4vw; display: grid; gap: 0.55rem; background: #1c1814; padding: 0.9rem 1rem; border: 1px solid rgba(246,240,230,.15); min-width: 12rem; }
.mobile-nav a { color: #f6f0e6; text-decoration: none; }

.splash { position: relative; min-height: 88vh; color: white; display: grid; align-items: end; }
.splash img, .page-splash img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; position: absolute; inset: 0; }
.splash-shade, .page-splash::after {
  content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0;
  background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(10,8,6,.15) 0%, rgba(10,8,6,.18) 40%, rgba(10,8,6,.78) 100%);
}
.splash-copy, .page-splash-copy { position: relative; z-index: 1; width: min(var(--measure), calc(100% - 8vw)); margin: 0 auto 4.4rem; }
.splash h1, .page-splash h1 { margin: 0 0 0.8rem; font-size: clamp(3.4rem, 8vw, 7.2rem); color: white; text-shadow: 0 10px 40px rgba(0,0,0,.35); }
.kicker { margin: 0 0 0.7rem; letter-spacing: 0.16em; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 0.75rem; color: var(--cinnabar); }
.kicker-light { color: var(--gold); }
.lede, .splash-copy p, .page-splash-copy p { max-width: 40rem; color: #f3ece1; font-size: 1.12rem; }
.actions { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.7rem; margin-top: 1.3rem; }
.button, .button-ghost {
  display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 2.9rem; padding: 0.55rem 1.05rem;
  border-radius: 999px; text-decoration: none; background: var(--cinnabar); color: white;
}
.button-ghost { background: transparent; color: white; border: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.55); }
.button-ink { background: var(--ink); color: var(--paper); }
.photo-credit, figcaption { font-size: 0.75rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.splash .photo-credit, .page-splash .photo-credit { position: absolute; right: 1rem; bottom: 0.7rem; z-index: 1; color: rgba(255,255,255,.75); }
.splash .photo-credit a, figcaption a { color: inherit; }

.wrap { width: min(var(--measure), calc(100% - 8vw)); margin: 0 auto; }
.alert-row { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(4, 1fr); gap: 0.8rem; padding: 1.4rem 0 0.4rem; }
.alert {
  display: block; text-decoration: none; background: var(--ink); color: #f6f0e6;
  padding: 1rem 1rem 1.1rem; border-radius: 1rem; min-height: 9.5rem;
}
.alert:nth-child(2) { background: var(--cinnabar); }
.alert:nth-child(3) { background: #243126; }
.alert:nth-child(4) { background: #6d2a22; }
.alert span { display: block; letter-spacing: 0.14em; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 0.7rem; color: var(--gold); margin-bottom: 0.45rem; }
.alert strong { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.45rem; font-weight: 560; display: block; margin-bottom: 0.35rem; }
.alert p { color: rgba(246,240,230,.86); margin: 0; font-size: 0.92rem; }

.section-head { display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1rem; align-items: end; margin: 2.4rem 0 1rem; }
.section-head h2 { margin: 0; font-size: clamp(2.2rem, 4vw, 3.6rem); max-width: 16ch; }
.city-mosaic { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); grid-auto-rows: 320px; gap: 0.75rem; }
.shot {
  position: relative; overflow: hidden; border-radius: 1.1rem; color: white; text-decoration: none;
  display: flex; align-items: end; min-height: 220px;
}
.shot img { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform .6s ease; }
.shot:hover img { transform: scale(1.05); }
.shot span { position: relative; z-index: 1; padding: 1rem; text-shadow: 0 8px 24px rgba(0,0,0,.45); }
.shot::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(180deg, transparent 35%, rgba(0,0,0,.72)); }
.shot strong { display: block; font-family: var(--serif); font-size: clamp(1.8rem, 3vw, 2.8rem); }
.shot em { font-style: normal; letter-spacing: 0.08em; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 0.75rem; color: var(--gold); }
.city-mosaic .shot strong { font-size: clamp(2.1rem, 3vw, 3rem); }

.band { padding: 1rem 0 2.4rem; }
.split { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 0.8fr 1.2fr; gap: 1rem; align-items: start; }
.card-grid, .food-grid, .place-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); gap: 0.8rem; }
.info-card, .food-card, .place-card { background: var(--paper-2); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 1rem; overflow: hidden; }
.info-card, .food-card { padding: 1rem 1.05rem 1.1rem; }
.info-card h3, .food-card h3 { margin: 0.2rem 0 0.4rem; font-size: 1.45rem; }
.food-card .zh { color: var(--cinnabar); letter-spacing: 0.08em; font-size: 0.78rem; text-transform: uppercase; }
.place-card { text-decoration: none; display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.place-card img { aspect-ratio: 16/10; object-fit: cover; width: 100%; }
.place-card div { padding: 0.85rem 0.95rem 1rem; }
.place-card h3 { margin: 0.25rem 0; font-size: 1.55rem; }
.badge { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; border-radius: 999px; padding: 0.15rem 0.55rem; font-size: 0.72rem; letter-spacing: 0.06em; text-transform: uppercase; color: white; }
.badge-required { background: var(--cinnabar); }
.badge-timed { background: var(--clay); }
.badge-free { background: var(--pine); }
.badge-walkup { background: var(--river); }

.guide-list { display: grid; }
.guide-row {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 9rem 1fr auto; gap: 1rem; align-items: center;
  padding: 1rem 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); text-decoration: none;
}
.guide-row strong { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.7rem; font-weight: 560; }
.guide-row span, .guide-row em { color: var(--ink-soft); font-style: normal; }
.guide-row:hover strong { color: var(--cinnabar); }

.page-splash { position: relative; min-height: 62vh; display: grid; align-items: end; color: white; }
.page-hero { padding: 3rem 0 0.5rem; }
.page-hero h1 { margin: 0 0 0.8rem; font-size: clamp(3rem, 7vw, 5.6rem); }
.page-hero .lede { color: var(--ink-soft); }
.crumb { margin: 0 0 0.7rem; }
.crumb a { color: var(--cinnabar); text-decoration: none; }
.steps { list-style: none; margin: 0.4rem 0 0; padding: 0; counter-reset: step; display: grid; gap: 0.75rem; }
.steps li {
  counter-increment: step;
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 2.2rem 1fr;
  gap: 0.75rem;
  align-items: start;
  margin: 0;
  padding: 0.85rem 0.9rem;
  background: var(--paper-2);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: 1rem;
}
.steps li::before {
  content: counter(step);
  display: grid;
  place-items: center;
  width: 2.2rem;
  height: 2.2rem;
  border-radius: 999px;
  background: var(--cinnabar);
  color: white;
  font-family: var(--serif);
  font-size: 1.05rem;
}
.page-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 13rem 1fr; gap: 2rem; padding: 1.5rem 0 3rem; }
.toc { position: sticky; top: 5rem; align-self: start; display: grid; gap: 0.4rem; }
.toc p { margin: 0 0 0.2rem; letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 0.72rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.toc a { text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink-soft); }
.toc a:hover { color: var(--cinnabar); }
.prose h2 { margin: 2rem 0 0.7rem; font-size: clamp(1.8rem, 3vw, 2.6rem); }
.plain { padding-left: 1.1rem; }
.plain li { margin: 0.35rem 0; }
.prose a, .lede a { color: var(--cinnabar); }
.ticket a { color: var(--gold); }
.ticket a.button { color: #fff; background: var(--cinnabar); }
.note { margin: 1.2rem 0; padding: 1rem 1.05rem; background: #f8e4dc; border-left: 4px solid var(--cinnabar); }
.note-title { font-family: var(--serif); font-size: 1.25rem; margin: 0 0 0.3rem; }
.fact-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; gap: 0.8rem; margin: 1rem 0 0.4rem; }
.fact { background: rgba(255,255,255,.62); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 0.9rem; padding: 0.75rem 0.85rem; }
.fact-label { margin: 0; letter-spacing: 0.12em; text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 0.7rem; color: var(--gold-deep); }
.fact p:last-child { margin: 0.2rem 0 0; }

.sight-layout { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.3fr 0.8fr; gap: 1.2rem; align-items: start; padding-bottom: 3rem; }
.ticket {
  position: sticky; top: 5rem; background: var(--ink); color: #f6f0e6; border-radius: 1.2rem; padding: 1.15rem 1.15rem 1.25rem;
}
.ticket h2 { margin: 0.6rem 0 0.7rem; font-size: 2rem; color: white; }
.ticket li { margin: 0.35rem 0; }
.ticket .button { margin-top: 0.4rem; margin-right: 0.4rem; }
.city-food { padding-bottom: 1rem; }
.related { padding-bottom: 3rem; }
.related-links { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.6rem 1rem; }
.related-links a { color: var(--cinnabar); }

.site-footer {
  display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1.2fr 1fr; gap: 1rem; padding: 1.4rem 4vw 2rem;
  background: var(--ink); color: #d9d0c3;
}
.site-footer nav { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.45rem 0.8rem; align-content: start; justify-content: end; }
.site-footer .seal { color: #ffd0c8; }

@media (max-width: 980px) {
  .desktop-nav { display: none; }
  .mobile-nav { display: block; position: relative; }
  .alert-row, .card-grid, .food-grid, .place-grid, .split, .page-grid, .sight-layout, .site-footer, .city-mosaic { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .city-mosaic .shot:first-child { grid-row: auto; }
  .guide-row { grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 0.2rem; }
  .site-footer nav { justify-content: start; }
}
@media (max-width: 680px) {
  .alert-row, .card-grid, .food-grid, .place-grid, .split, .page-grid, .sight-layout, .fact-grid, .city-mosaic, .site-footer { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .splash { min-height: 78vh; }
  .splash h1 { font-size: clamp(2.8rem, 14vw, 4.2rem); }
  .toc { position: static; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  html { scroll-behavior: auto; }
  .shot img { transition: none; }
}