The historic town is real, and so is the commercial layer. The tag is historic because of the old town fabric, not because every bar is old.
Walk north toward the quieter canals and Lion Hill if you want out of the snack lane. The hill is a separate small ticket for the view.
Getting there
Taxi from the station or airport to a named gate. Walk from there. Cars stop at the edge. Remember the gate for the ride back.
Staying nearby
A guesthouse on a side canal, not on the square. Tell the driver the inn’s Chinese name and the nearest gate. Shuhe if this square is already too much.