小笼包
Xiaolongbao
Soup dumplings. Lift, bite a corner, let the broth cool, then eat. The skin should not fight you.
上海 · 3 days
Shanghai
Shanghai is the easiest landing in the country and a poor summary of it. Come for the walking, the dumplings, and a city that was international before the towers.
Stay near
The former French Concession or Jing’an
Give it
Three unhurried days
Book first
Shanghai Tower, if you want the view
Watch for
Tea-house invitations from strangers
Sleep in the former French Concession if you like to wander, or in Jing’an if you want the metro at the door. The Bund is a late walk. Yu Garden is a morning. The museum is the rainy day. One trip up a tower is enough.
Pudong is the long-haul airport. Hongqiao handles a huge share of domestic flights and sits beside a rail station. Read the ticket so you do not cross the city twice.
If someone young and friendly suggests a tea ceremony nearby, that is the opening of a padded bill. Thank them and stay on the street you chose.
Eat this, not a poster of it
What Shanghai actually tastes like
生煎
Shengjian
The pan-fried cousin, for a less delicate lunch. A good shop has a line and a limited batch.
葱油拌面
Scallion oil noodles
Cheap, and a fair test of whether the kitchen cares. Shanghai’s palate runs softer and a little sweeter than the inland west.
The sights
Where to go, and whether you can just show up.
Free, just walk
The Bund
The old riverfront. No ticket, no reservation, best at the end of the day.
Ticket, online or window
Yu Garden
A Ming garden inside a bazaar. The garden is the ticket. The bazaar is not.
Passport reservation
Shanghai Tower
The twisted tower. The observation deck is real-name and timed.
Only special shows
Shanghai Museum
Bronzes and paintings. The permanent galleries do not need a reservation. Special shows do.
Free, just walk
French Concession
Plane trees, lanes, and the part of the city that rewards getting lost.