东坡肉
Dongpo pork
Belly, soy, sugar, and wine, braised until the lean and the fat agree. A specialist will not serve it dry.
杭州 · 3 days
West Lake is a designed shore, not a wilderness and not a palace. Give the city the lake, one temple, and a meal that is not a lakeside banquet. The hills to the west are the tea.
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Stay near
East of the lake, on a metro line
Give it
Three days, one of them on foot
Book first
Lingyin, on a weekend
Watch for
Lakeside restaurants with a view and a dull kitchen
Walk a causeway in the morning and leave the painted ten views alone. Lingyin is the booked half day to the west. Leifeng Pagoda is the one paid look back at the water. Longjing is a bus into the tea hills, not a shop on the shore.
Hangzhou East is the huge high-speed station. The metro into town is the move. The airport is to the east as well, a different ride from the rail station.
The local palate is often sweeter and less violent than Sichuan. Dongpo pork and vinegar fish are the plates with pages. A meal facing the water is usually paying for the water.
Getting around
Metro from Hangzhou East station to the lakeside. Bikes and walking are the right speed on the causeways. Buses climb toward Lingyin and Longjing; a taxi is reasonable for the temple if you already have a slot.
Xixi Wetland is in the west of the city, a separate metro ride, not a stroll from Broken Bridge. Do not try to see the lake, the temple, and the wetland before lunch.
Where to sleep
East of the lake, in the old downtown with a metro stop, puts dinner and the morning walk in reach. It is the default.
The west shore is quieter and farther from the station. Sleep there only if the lake is the whole trip. Hotels that advertise a window onto the water are often the ones with the tired restaurant underneath.
Eat this, not a poster of it
东坡肉
Belly, soy, sugar, and wine, braised until the lean and the fat agree. A specialist will not serve it dry.
西湖醋鱼
Grass carp, vinegar, and sugar. The sweet-sour should still taste like fish. Order it because you are here, then decide.
龙井虾仁
Tea-fried river shrimp. The tea should be perfume, not a pile of leaves. It is a Hangzhou plate, not a national staple.
The sights
Cultural landscapes 人文风光
The lake in the middle of the city. The shore is free. A boat is optional.
Historic sites 历史古迹
A working Buddhist temple west of the lake, reached through the Feilai Feng rock.
Historic sites 历史古迹
The pagoda on the south shore. You pay to go up and look back at the lake.
Cultural landscapes 人文风光
The tea hills west of the lake. Walk the lanes. Buy tea only if you wanted tea.
Natural scenery 自然风景
A wetland of canals and paths in the west of the city. Timed entry.